MAJESTIC ITALY Part 11

    We entered the church to find another vast expanse.  Another HUGE church.  We were told that these huge churches were not originally intended to be everyday houses of worship, but huge churches reserved for special occasions. One feature of St. Paul's is that high up on the walls are lined with portraits of the popes.  Including several blank spaces waiting for the portraits of future popes.   Like most places, a local urban legend has grown that once all the spaces are filled in, the world is going to end.   That is to say some believe that the ring of Popes’ portraits serves as a calendar.  We then moved up closer to the main altar to see the tomb of St. Paul, and the huge statues of St. Peter and St. Paul.  We then moved forward to look at a mosaic in the apse of the church.  Here we saw another bit of technology.  The light switch for the dome with the mosaics is coin operated.  1,000L (50 cents) turns on the lights for a few minutes.  After the fine mosaic work we looked at the Easter Candle holder, which is large enough to be a fine engraved column of statues, but if you look way up there is a candle on top of it.   Fine sculpture work in the candlestick.  We then paused at a pretty side altar, in a bright emerald green.  The altar being so huge, that an attendant had actually climbed up on top of the altar to even have a chance at reaching the candles he was assigned to change.

We then left the church proper and briefly toured the Baptistery.  As I mentioned, in those days you had to be baptized to enter the church.  The Baptistery was positioned at a side entrance to the church in such a way that the new member of the church had to literally walk through it.  The floor of the ornate room was sunken down like an indoor pool, and the new member of the church had to walk through the water to come out the other side and into the church.   Today the practice of  'wading in the water' has been eliminated, the sunken pool is drained, and a modern baptism font mounted in the center of the room.  We then exited the church into the cloisters, where we saw the inner courtyard of the cloisters, and its much more simple form of art.  We then had a gift shop stop in the cloisters.  It's a combination gift shop/art gallery/religious goods store.  One can also buy bottles of a certain kind of liquor that the Benedictine monks are famous for.   A Liquor store in a church, you heard it here first.   At one end of the store were fancy bishops miters and other church service apparatus that were beautiful to look at, and a brief chuckle was had when I realized the ornate bishops miter I was looking at had a price tag on it.  (2,500,000L) ($1,250) for those who are curious. 

After the gift shop run, we got back on the bus, and past a farmer's market.  It was noted that Italians in general don't care for supermarkets, and prefer these smaller markets which give the illusion of fresher food.  At one point on the drive, I thought I might have seen a Pinfari Zyklon alongside the road.  This may have been a coaster fans mirage, and it was behind some shorter structures and off on a side street, so I didn't get that good a look at it, but it was a white steel structure, that had what looked like track going around the edges of the rounded off end of the structure. We drove past some more buildings, saw more of Rome, and suddenly embedded into the wall of the city is a pyramid.  The pyramid, just like in Egypt held a tomb.  Of course this pyramid wasn't near as large as those in Egypt but that didn't stop our guide from quipping that we no longer need to see Egypt J. There is a bit of a humorous inscription of the pyramid.  It translates roughly into "Don't Worry, we finished in 330 days".  The legend behind this one is that the man had some deal with the city of Rome that in exchange for having this pyramid tomb built in the city wall, that if it weren’t finished in one year his entire estate would go to the city.  We then took a bus ride back to our hotel.  As always the local guide was pointing things out along the way, and we had another ritual to be concerned with.  Although a lot of gratuities are taken care of for you on a tour, it is still customary to tip the tour guides, and we took this opportunity to tip our local guide to Rome for the last 4 days.   Tips and all out of the way, we sat back, and enjoyed the Roman cityscape.

            We soon arrived back at our hotel.  This would be our lunch stop.  As dinner was the furnished meal today, lunch was on our own.  After running stuff up to the hotel room, we decided to lunch in the cafeteria located on the ground floor of our hotel.  This cafeteria has some significance to a lot of tour members, as they had had a meal or two there during their earlier trip to Rome some 15 years ago.   This cafeteria is designed to cater to the English speaking tourist, but don't be alarmed a lot of locals also eat there.  As that night would be the grand banquet for the tour, we decided on a light lunch of bread, tortellini, soft drinks, and gelati. A note to those traveling, if you are looking for an American style cafeteria, the style is translated as "Self Service Restaurant" on the sign outside.  I was almost expecting an automat when I walked inside.  I ate at the self-service restaurant and must comment about the nice service J.  It was yet another great meal, we then ventured off a couple blocks from the hotel to look in some other gift shops.  A companion managed to talk a scarf vendor, (for some reason silk scarves seem to be a popular item for the vendors to sell, usually for about $5), into selling two scarves for the price of one.  We think said companion got cussed out in Italian, but hey the deal was made.  We returned from the gift shop, took a few moments to relax before walking to the Vatican Museum.  Some, like my mom chose not to walk, but instead hired a taxi.  I'd say she made the right decision as it is a bit of a walk to get from St. Peter's Square to the entrance to the Vatican Museum which is all the way around to the far side of Vatican City. No shortcuts here, you have to walk the perimeter wall of Vatican City until you come to the Museum Entrance.  In our case we would meet up at the museum exit. 

            You see, we were granted a rare special privilege, that of a private tour of the Vatican Museum after closing hours.  They accommodated us on Monday as the museum closes at 1pm on Mondays.  For just our group, the museum reopened in the afternoon.  At our designated meeting time, the exit doors of the museum were opened, and we were admitted and were counted by security. We then took a 'hidden hallway' that leads from the exit hall back to the entrance lobby.  You see, during normal operations they encourage guests to check all unnecessary bags and parcels at a bin check facility, located between the entrance and exit.  We were shuttled through this baggage check area to the entrance lobby.  However we could not enter the ticketing lobby until everybody had passed an airport style security checkpoint.  After the checkpoint, a restroom break was given, as there are no facilities within museum itself.  Besides this allowed our tour leader to go to the ticket window and pick up our tickets.  Formalities continue, even if the museum is technically closed.   To get the most out of our private tour, an additional local guide was engaged to split the group up into two smaller groups.  "Those who rode on the left side of the bus this morning are in group A, those on the right side in group B".  We found ourselves in Group A, picked up our tickets and headed up the stairs to the entrance.  At the top of a flight of stairs, we noticed additional ticket offices, and the hallway leading to the museum.  The local guides description of the self-service turnstiles at the entrance was amusing.  Mostly the line about "If you don't insert your ticket into the machine, the bar will remain locked, causing a most unpleasant feeling in your stomach".  The turnstiles were standard Florida theme park issue, and totally self-service, under the watchful eye of security. Once through the turnstiles, we learned that the whole entryway we are using looks extremely modern because it is.  This entrance was constructed in the year 2000 to go along with the Jubilee celebration.  We also learned that the actual galleries were still a floor higher.  A normal guest would have the choice between the escalator, and a very unique spiral ramp where the coils of the spiral get tighter as you ascend.  Our guides and our museum hosts directed that everybody use the escalator.   The whole method of the tour led some to joke that our tour guide had a guide.  Both groups would tour the museum in the same order, with a guard escorting one group and walking ahead to ensure that no one got ahead of the group, and an escort walking behind the rear group, effectively re-securing the gallery after we passed through.   Around the next bend and we were to start on the upper level of the galleries, make that another flight of stairs. Halfway up the flight, the rather large landing held the first room of artifacts.  These were clearly Egyptian artifacts. The point was made that the items were not acquired for the museum; rather they are items that the various Popes acquired, either through gifts or other means.  Similar to the Presidential Libraries here in the states.  While our guides only spotlighted a few representative works, the layout of the museum is very good.  First we saw room after room of sculptures, statuary and artifacts.  It was noted that a lot of the statues were missing their heads because of tourists.   Not tourists to this museum, but back in their day, when cameras were not available, it was a common, if not despised practice to steal the head off a favorite statue.  I mean you often could not lift and steal the whole artwork, but the head was manageable.  Thanks early tourists for your selfishness. It was also noted that although the statues are exhibited all in white, it was also common to paint the statuary to more resemble the person.   After the rooms of statues and sculptures, we were lead into the tapestry room.   As you may know tapestries were huge wall hangings that served an important purpose.  They served to add warmth to the room before insulation was invented.  Or to cover windows which at the time would not have had glass in them.   It was quipped that students from tapestry guild of the north make higher quality tapestries than those in the south because the northerners actually have to use them.   The tapestries exhibited are huge, and then we were told of the technique.  They were made on a loom, the artists sitting at the loom on the BACKside of the tapestry. A full-length wall mirror would be setup on the front side of the loom allowing the artist to see how the tapestry will look.  It was noted that the tapestry was not made all at once, but in the tradition of quilting, several squares were made which would eventually be joined together.   The tapestries on display were of course very beautiful works of art.  At the end if the tapestry section of the museum, our attention was drawn to the ceiling.  It was noted that we were on the top floor, and the ceiling was vaulted with ornate carvings and sculpture and design.  The question was asked of the group to guess what the ceiling was made of.  Guesses of "Cement, Ivory, Gold, Plaster, Marble, etc" rang out.  All were shocked to learn that the entire ceiling was actually flat, with NO vaulting, and that the whole thing was an illusion of forced perspective. More galleries, and then we enter the Chart Room.  By charts, I mean maps.  On display are maps of the different regions of Italy.  We were told that these maps were made before flying machines, before satellite imagery, before radio and television, before telephones, before cameras.  Now when these maps were made cartographers had to climb to the highest point of the land and make a chart, then move a little bit further, and make another chart.  At the end the various drawings were compiled, and then the final maps were drawn.  The maps on display show the early regions of Italy when they were separate nations, kingdoms, etc. The most amazing thing about these primitive maps is that they agree with modern maps produced using state of the art technology.  In other words these early maps, produced with crude and primitive means are ACCURATE.   They are now treasured as art works, but I think some great recognition needs to be given to the early art of cartography.  We noted the signs alerting us that cameras are not welcome, however, every few galleries, there are gift kiosks selling posters of the works in the gallery module you are currently viewing.   We then entered the early popes residence.  It was noted that although not in use any longer it is a treasure due to the frescoes in the various rooms.  It runs in my mind that Raphael is given the credit, but I may be wrong.  Room after room of frescoes, The former popes study has four walls each depicting a gift from the heavens (faith, hope, love, etc) After touring the former popes residence, it was time to see what some term the crowning jewel of the whole museum.  It most assuredly is the most famous room. The Sistine Chapel.  The pope's private chapel.  We are led down a couple flights of stairs, additional security is added, and we are led into the Sistine Chapel.  

            The Sistine Chapel is perhaps Michelangelo's most famous work.  As a painter that is.  It is quite an accomplishment, when you realize that Michelangelo was a sculptor, and when we was in his 70s the pope commissioned him to paint the Sistine Chapel.  Legend has it that Michelangelo originally said "Thanks, but no Thanks" and left, then the pope made him an offer he couldn't refuse, and as we can see still today, Michelangelo accepted the commission.  Michelangelo used a divide and conquer technique, that of adding what amounts to fake vaulting to the ceiling to subdivide the big expanse of space to several smaller blocks.  This was actually a great move as it helps give the whole composition a sense of order.  The most famous part of the ceiling frescoes is of course "Creation" in the middle, or the hands of Adam and God almost touching.  As an aside it is actually against regulations to sit or lie down on the floor of the Sistine Chapel. We were cautioned about gazing up at the ceiling for more than a few moments at a time as it leads to dizziness, vertigo and messes up your balance system. And we had the benefit of the benches that line the walls.  Covered in a layer of Lucite to protect the original wall art and stonework of the bench.  It was noted that Michelangelo was almost blind when he finished the project from paint dripping down on his head.  In another moment of legend, it is said that when the pope of the day was brought in to review the finished room, he originally was irate and almost had the room totally painted over.  Back the way it was before Michelangelo was brought in.  Before Michelangelo the ceiling and walls were solid dark blue. Luckily for us, the artwork survived this initial review, and Michelangelo was brought in later to paint a full wall sized mural of the "Day of Judgment".  This too was originally not accepted by the pope, and some changes were made, but Michelangelo got the last laugh as it were.  Painting the face of the pope into the group of bodies being led to hell. Later art students were brought in to dress the figures in the paintings.  Clothes were added and a few still remain.  Most were removed as part of a restoration work that was able to restore the figures back to their original design.  A postage stamp sized block remains to the side as a reference to the restoration project.  The unrestored block appears to be a solid black square.  After our formal tour of the chapel, some time was given for self-exploration.   Then another rare honor was bestowed on the choir.  The chance to perform a concert in the Sistine Chapel.  Sure the audience would just be us non-singing tour members, tour guides and a few security guards, but it was a concert nonetheless.  As they often say, this shows not for the audience, it’s for the experience.  One thing learned during the concert is that the Chapel has excellent acoustics.  The sounds of the last notes of a song would remain for a good seven to ten seconds after the song ended.  Another thing noticed is that the security guards who up to now had had a serious no-nonsense look about them started to relax and appeared to genuinely be enjoying the concert.  Mini-concert and all, I would estimate that we had the Sistine Chapel, alone to just our group for a good 45 minutes.

            We then exited the chapel through a door located on a side wall at the other end.  There the path led to stairs to lead us back up to the museum galleries.  Although the formal tour had ended, and the pace was a bit faster than I would have liked, we gazed upon gallery after gallery of artwork of every description.   Then furniture, then religious goods, then the bare rooms themselves began to take on an elaborate view.  Everywhere you turn is another work of art better than the last.   The Vatican Museum may be described in the tourist books as an "art museum", but just imagine the largest, grandest art museum you had ever seen and multiply it tenfold.  Eventually, our Vatican Museum tour came to an end as we found ourselves at he top of the escalator and spiral ramp where we started.  We were taken down to what is now the exit hallway, but was originally the main hall.  We could see the grand staircase in the center of the room, and could also see that if we took the stairs it would be several flights down.   Our hosts decided that we should go down via the Ascensore (elevator in Italian).  When we saw the leaded glass doors and the wrought iron safety gate, and the word "Ascensore" written in brass/gold(?) above the door, we knew this would not be an ordinary elevator ride.  The ornate door was opened to reveal a large elevator car.  (This itself is rare in Italy, as elevators tend to be quite tiny.  Most accommodating "4" persons, but anything over two is a tight fit. The elevator in our hotel even had a scale hooked up to it, and it seemed to know as soon as passenger number five stepped on to light the "Overweight" indicator. (An Icon of a scale, and a buzzer).  These elevators however were enormous, with fine woodwork in them.  As we boarded the elevator car, we learned that instead of the usual handrail along the walls, this car features cushioned benches around walls.  Allowing us to sit down and take our elevator ride in either ultimate luxury, ultimate laziness, or both depending on your point of view.  This elevator, like its more garden variety counterparts does travel slower than what we are accustomed to, however the ride down almost seemed to end too soon, as the leaded glass door was opened and we were beckoned out of the car. We followed the exit hallway, and had to wait while the host unlocked (yes with a key), what has to be the largest, tallest door I had ever seen.  I mean you would think this was a fort or something. We were exited into the parking lot, and didn't even get to peruse the gift shop.  Hearty members decided to walk back to the hotel as the bus would not be available.  I joined mom and several others at the Taxi Stand to hire a taxi.  We had a brief communication problem with a cabbie that did not speak English.  However he did know "St. Peters Square", and  with the help of the passenger riding in the front seat with him, we were able to direct him the 1/2 block from St. Peters Square. So what if we darn near got in an accident, and drove within mere inches of cars on either side, isn't that half the thrill of taxi rides?  More amazing than that was the fare on the meter - 8,500L ($4.25).  Where, in the States, can I get a carload of passengers transported for $4.25?  I, of course, rounded it up to 10,000L then was left wondering if it is common practice to tip taxi drivers in Rome.   On the way into the hotel I decided I would try the one soft drink I hadn't had yet.  Invariably, your soft drink selection is Coke (the descriptor "Classic" is not used), Coke Light (Diet Coke), Sprite, Orange, and Lemon.  No Beverly to be seen. (Beverly is an anise flavored soft drink, exhibited at the World of Coca Cola and reputed to be Italian.  It was not served in any establishment I was in while in Italy, as I was watching for it.  I wanted the lemon-flavored soda, but I had trouble communicating with the snack cart owner what I wanted.  The universal method of pointing to the product on the counter and saying "Uno" for one achieved the desired results.

The lemon soda had much in common with the orange soda.  (And at English speaking stands they are called simply "Orange Soda" and "Lemon Soda" with no brand name. Or sometimes Fanta is used as the brand name.  According to my bottle I was having a Fanta Icy Lemon.  I do question the vendors sign proclaiming he had "The Coldest Soft Drinks Around", but I guess in a land that does not use ice, and very little refrigeration, I guess I have to modify my expectations of "Coldest": The bottle was a strange yellow color I had not seen used before, and in it was essentially carbonated lemonade.  Just about what I had expected. I enjoyed this beverage while relaxing from our day of touring.  The farewell banquet was rescheduled for 7:45, it was now about 5:30 so lots of time to relax and unwind.   We even began the process of packing up to come home.  Something told us we would be too tired to pack after dinner. 

But before dinner, we had an appointment, all of us did, with the professional photographer we had while in Rome.  Apparently while we were touring today, he was very busy in his darkroom preparing proofs.  Here is where I point the camera at myself, and reveal how naïve I was.  When we were told that our Rome pictures would be available for purchase I though of the formal group photos taken in St. Peter Square.  One of the choir, and one of everyone, then one of the choir at St. Ignatius.  I figures, okay that would be a choice of 3 proofs to select from.  Upon entering the hotel meeting room, which was currently being used as the photographer’s store, we learned that photos were only 15,000L per photo per copy.  ($7.50), and then my jaw dropped and eyes popped out when approximately 50 proofs were on display.  Gone was plan A of getting one of each. 49 were of the group.  Proof 50 was a portrait of the Pope. We realized we would have to be selective, and I figured okay, we're on vacation so maybe we'd choose four or five photos. Wrong!  I knew which ones I wanted, and Mom just seemed to keep adding more photos to our order.  As I was filling out the order form, I kept trying to tell Mom about how expensive this was getting.  Each time I got "We're on vacation" "Hush" or "Don't worry about it as a response"  Even at "We're up to $50", "We're up to $75", "We're up to $100.00" At that point I just shut up.  After choosing our photos, we handed our slip to the photographer, he added it up and announced 260,000L, payable in cash.  We knew we did not have that kind of Lire. I noticed some American dollars in his cashbox, and inquired on the rate in US$.  He returned an answer of $128. Slightly better than the rule of thumb exchange rate.  Mom then realized for the first time just how much this was going to be.   But we didn't back down, reached into our money belts, and peeled off the bills of US greenbacks.  And here in the center of Rome and Vatican City, the grand dollar was flexing its shopping muscle.  (The photographer had excellent service by the way, and an accurate order of 8x10 photographs arrived just two and a half weeks after the trip. Quite an achievement as it took my postcard about one and a half weeks to arrive.)  Back in our room Mom admitted to not being quite clear on the exchange.  She had thought the photographs were 75 cents each, no matter how ridiculously absurd that sounds for professional 8x10’s.   We got a lot of laughs out of it, and in the end are glad we did buy all the pictures we did, and hey we were on vacation, and how often are you in Rome?

 

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